Missouri
(07-19-2004)

ST. LOUIS

The Arch. Okay, throw in Busch Stadium and, perhaps, the Old Courthouse, but that’s about it. The bulk of St. Louis is one huge slum.

Radiating from the Arch (Mississippi waterfront), for miles in all directions, many buildings are vacant, ageing warehouses lie bleak and abandoned, homes are unkempt, and the streets are in disrepair. In places, the old cobblestones have been retained in hopes of lending some charm but, unfortunately, they’ve become obstacles for cars, rough enough to cause damage. The major attractions are now the casino barges docked near the Arch, drawing the most sordid types the city has to offer. Inner-city renewal is virtually non-existent. The Show Me state isn’t showing me much.

Simply put, if St Louis weren’t in America, George Bush would be itching to invade.

THE GATEWAY ARCH

The human species builds monuments. There may be many reasons why, but maybe we do it just because we can. I’m glad “we” built this one.

To a casual observer like me, the simplicity of the Arch belies its engineering marvel. Each section had to be built strong enough to support the weight of a surrounding crane, which then had to lift the next section into place; each section at an angle greater than the previous one. Even halfway through construction, many experts still thought it could not be completed successfully. (The innovative designer was Eero Saarinen, a name dear to all crossword solvers).

The tram to the top is comprised of eight separate cabs, each carrying five people, sitting. They’re quite small and closely resemble the inside of a front-loading washing machine. But it’s worth the trip. The view from the top is spectacular. The Old Courthouse shown in the picture is where the Dred Scott case was heard in 1857.

This is Lewis & Clark territory. Under the Arch and below ground is a terrific museum commemorating the 200th anniversary of their expedition, as well as a time-line of key events (political, social and otherwise) of the early decades of America. As I was reading, I got a clearer sense of the flow of history in this country. Somehow it made sense.

FOOTNOTE # 1: Upon their return in 1806, Meriwether Lewis and William Clark were hailed as heroes, and Jefferson rewarded them by appointing each a governor of a district in the Louisiana Purchase. Clark’s career progressed steadily while Lewis, the leader of the expedition, shot himself three years later. This fact took on a curious significance when I got to Louisville.

FOOTNOTE # 2: To get from Colorado to Missouri, in the shortest time, I had to traverse the entire state of Kansas. Easier said than done. Yes, it’s flat, boring and full of corn, but at every stop one can’t help but notice the distinct odor of manure. It’s everywhere. Necessary, I know, but rather unpleasant.

FOOTNOTE # 3: The tour of the Anheuser-Busch brewery was worth it, but I still prefer Colorado-brewed Fat Tire amber.

Music of the week: various selections from Verdi operas.

Anheuser Clydesdale	Luke the Clydesdale
Busch Brewery	Busch Brewery